Where the Heck is Roatan?

Madame saw a man wearing a t-shirt that said "Where the hell is Roatan? when she was in Honduras recently. That's where Roatan is; it's an island off the coast. (Click here to read about the history of the island.) Last year the cruise ship docked at Mahogany Bay a little touristy spot with lovely little shops that look like Caribbean cottages and a sky lift (think SKI lift) to take visitors over to the private beach if they don't want to walk through the lovely manicured grounds. Madame had been describing that lovely scene all week to her new friends in the hot tub or at the pool.

The danger of sharing a travel experience is that sometimes things change and then you just look, well, silly. This is what happened to Madame. This time the ship docked (or would have if another ship hadn't already been there) at Coxen Hole. The first bad sign was that there wasn't any pier and passengers had to be tendered to the dock. No big deal, tendering is actually kind of fun, unless you forget something and need to run back to the ship. Once ashore there was a charming little shopping area much like the one she remembered but at the information booth she was informed that the taxi to go to West End where there was a beach, and several restaurants and places to shop, was going to run about $25 per person. To go the mile and half or two to get to Mahogany Bay? About the same. That's a lot of money and you can negotiate with the drivers but at this point Madame wasn't in the mood.

"So there's nothing to do right here?"

The helpful retired American (there are about 1500 of them on the island) informed her that she could walk out the gate past where the taxis were and turn right--that would take them to Old Towne. Sun sparkled on the water and some men played kettle drums outside a jewelry store with white plantation shutters. Shoppers crowded the liquor stores and boutiques. MO never has figured out the numerous diamond stores at every port the ship stops. They reached the gate and stepped out into reality. A couple of children asked for money. They walked along a treacherous sidewalk. Locales gawked. Several people asked them where they were headed and offered to take them to a beach. A young man asked them if he could help them find something. Mr. Mo said he was looking for a cigar store and the three of them headed there.


It was soon obvious that this kid had attached himself to them as a volunteer guide. Madame realized that they would need to tip him. After a shop or two where he stood patiently by as they shopped, and informed Madame whether or not it was alright to haggle, he introduced himself as Elmer Welcome. He spoke perfect English, had a very good knowledge of the history of the area. They chatted as they went through town. The main street that runs through Old Town holds no resemblance whatsoever to the gleaming cheerful tourist areas. The contrast is jolting. Buildings are ramshackle, grates over gutters on the street are missing leaving dangerous holes that could swallow a small child. There are stray dogs everywhere. Skinny ones. Between dilapidated buildings Madame would catch a glimpse of the gleaming ships in the harbor. They asked Elmer about his life. He was a high school student who was hoping to go to the local college to get a degree in hospitality. His goal was to get a job as a waiter on one of the cruise ships. Madame asked him how long the ships had been coming there.

"Fourteen years." he said.

"What was it like before?"

"There was nothing here but a dirt road, everyone was very poor before the tourists came."

Mr. MO inquired about a place to have lunch. He took them to the cleanest building in town. Still simple with outdoor seating with plastic lawn chairs, but exceedingly clean. Several locals sat with their laptops. Madame suspected this was the only place in town with wi-fi. They offered to buy Elmer's lunch but he said he would rather have cash. Mr. MO handed him fifteen dollars, thanked him and wished him luck.

Bay Side Restaurant and Grille has an excellent drink menu and delicious local food. Madame asked the waitress what the typical local meal was. Conch and fried plantain was the answer.  Mr. MO ordered the shrimp ceviche. The food was delicious, and beautifully presented. Simple ingredients were combined to make a perfect lunch. The conch was cooked in a butter and garlic sauce. MO ordered up a pina colada, after double checking about the use of purified ice. It was easily the best one she's ever had. The ceviche was beautiful and super fresh. I couldn't find a website for the restaurant but here is the link to their Facebook page.

Roatan is a beautiful island with a variety of experiences to offer. MO was disappointed that she didn't get to go snorkling this time. The reef in Roatan is now considered one of the top 7 places in the world for it. She wasn't willing to do it alone, and it really wouldn't be Mr. MO's thing at all. Next time however, even if it is a lone adventure she doesn't intend to miss it.

Happy Travels, Y'all!

Cave Tubing in Belize

The cruise line tries to scare you...

"Excursions not booked through the ship may not get you back on time."

"You don't know what you're getting."

"They may not get you back to the ship on time."

"Some of them are shady."

"Did we mention, that they may not get you back to the ship on time?"

Normally, if Madame is traveling alone, she books through the ship. She wants someone to hold her hand, put a sticker on her, and remind her what bus to get on after she's had a margarita...or two.

But in Belize this time Mr. Owner went with her and they ran into a couple who had done their research ahead of time. They took the tour with Cave-tubing.com. Once they found their seat on the bus, the guide, Speedo, gave a little introductory talk...

"We know what the cruise lines tell you: that we are shady, that you don't know what you are getting, that we might not get you back to the ship on time. We PROMISE to get you back on time and give you an awesome experience today."

And they did.

It was about a 45 minute bus ride into the jungle to get to the site. After a quick stop to let off the people who were doing the ATV ride instead of jungle hike, Madame and Mr. MO  were on their way. They ended up at the same place that their fellow cruisers did. The  fellow cruisers who were paying $79 while they were paying $45. The fellow cruisers who had fancy life vests, and helmets with lights.

Helmets? Madame wondered what she'd gotten herself into.

The hike through the jungle was on a path that was easily traversed, though occasionally hilly, or muddy, it was not all that physically taxing. No one was out of breath enough to keep them from chattering with fellow travelers and ribbing the patrons of other companies. Once they neared the river Madame heard splashing. Well timed splashing...

She had a moment of panic thinking she might have to jump into the river. As she rounded the edge of a cliff she could see the platform. One guide held the inner tube as Speedo held the person's hands and lowered them, carefully, into a sitting position on the tube. Madame was wearing a tank top over her swim suit and during the entire adventure it didn't get wet.

Once a group of 8 is secured together ( the maximum number of people per guide allowed--this was checked at the entrance by an official) the float into the caves begins. Head lamps are provided as the caves are lengthy enough to be quite dark inside. The instructions given before entering the water included heeding the "Butts up!" call to avoid certain rocky areas. The men seemed to be paying extra careful attention to that part of the speech.

The river was smooth, the caves beautiful and mysterious, and the guides in complete control at all times. It soon became clear that the helmets and industrial strength life vests on the other tubers were overkill. Even what the guides called "rapids" were only ripples in the water to experienced canoers like MO and her husband.

The scenery was stunning and the experience seemed both exotic and relaxing. Upon exiting the river after about an hour long float (Madame is guessing) the bus took them to a hut for a lunch that was included in the price of the tour. It was an authentic chicken tamale (whole chicken leg included) wrapped in a banana leaf. This is not the small tightly wrapped tamale you may get in the States but is more the size of an enchilada. After lunch and drinks, it was time to board the bus for the trip back to the pier to catch the tender for the ship. There was still plenty of time for shopping and drinks before that.

Cavetubing.com did exactly what they promised, for half the price of the excursion booked through the ship.

Happy Travels, Y'all!

Traveling Mad Hatters

 My grandmother was a hat box so I have a soft spot for millinery. That was back in the day when people knew how to dress...and travel. Madame Owner loves the pink one with the leopard print bow in this pic.

"I don't look good in hats" is something women say all the time. But maybe you just haven't found your style. Unless you've spent time in a hat shop where you felt comfortable trying on lots of styles you may not know which one is good for you. 

Is it a newsboy? Cowboy? Bowler? Beret? 

How to find your your chapeau style anyway? 

Cloche? Fedora? Bucket? Tam? 

No need to take a pillbox exam. 

Enter Carol Schaffield, the owner of Peaches Fine Millinery located at 102 Lee Avenue in Chickamauga Ga. 

Peaches feels like home!

Carol is the charming and fun loving angel residing over her own slice of hat heaven. If you've ever been intimidated in a hat shop by a judgmental, stuffy staff ( a certain New Orleans store comes to mind) you will appreciate Carol's easygoing manner and true desire, not just to sell you a hat but find a shape that works for your face and relate to you her vast knowledge of hat history. She has several vintage hats (and boxes!) and sometimes people who come to own hats by way of inheritance pass them on to her to make sure they have a good home where they are appreciated.

The Food Maven channels Carmen Miranda!

The Food Maven and My Owner spent a lovely hour or so catching up with Carol during our annual visit and trying on different hats (and personalities). They also spent some time indulging in a little impromptu therapy.

Okay, it's more than a hat shop.  

It's a place to play dress-up for grown up girls who are in the midst of redefining themselves. 

What hat are you wearing today?

Cooking Up Some Fun in Savannah

Every traveler knows that one of the joys of visiting a different city is savoring the local cuisine. The REAL foodies among you may want to take that love of travel and food one step further by enrolling in a cooking class taught by a local chef. While Madame Owner was recently visiting The Food Maven in Savannah, they did just that. It was the highlight of the week.

The Food Maven in her element!

Chef Darin Sehnert teaches at the Mansion on Foryth Park's 700 Cooking School. The Housewife and The Food Maven took his Stewing and Braising class in which that most illustrious dish of all dishes (okay, French beef stew) Boeuf bourguignon, with celery root mashed potatoes, and braised leeks were on the schedule. The chef covered some essential kitchen basics such as proper use of a knife as well as how to select a good one, some culinary definitions, and a little kitchen science. There's a reason you salt the food when cooking instead of at the table! Participation is encouraged and Chef Darin handles the session with a delightful combination of expertise and humor. Since you are more likely to learn and retain more information when you are relaxed and having fun, it is a great teaching combo. Who knew we were all cutting onions wrong all these years?   

Their class was comprised of 8 students and the facilities were posh yet comfortable. You will enjoy this class whether you are a diehard foodie like the Food Maven, a sometimes foodie, like Madame Owner, or just someone who loves food but has no idea how it magically ends up on your plate. You'll want to spend a little time wondering around if you attend. The chocolate brown, orange, and leopard print decor made The Housewife and The Food Maven's mouths water long before they got to the kitchen. 

Chef Darin is amiable and tolerant. He wasn't even put off by My Owner and her friend taking frequent pictures and cracking jokes. They did however refrain from speaking in their Julia Child voices during the class, something they had planned on beforehand. (This dish is practically synonymous with the Grand Dame of cooking) After all the cutting and chopping, while the stew was being made the chef called Madame Housewife over to do the flambe. She held the pan while the chef poured in the brandy and lit it creating a surprising amount of heat and flame. She'd been expecting a small flame within the pan, so it was a bit of a shock, as was the fact that the Food Maven didn't get a photo. Never fear. The Food Maven (and friend extraordinaire) asked Chef Darin if MO could do it again so she could document the moment.  He agreed and the scene was repeated. 

There is something delicious about a man who lets you play with fire in his kitchen!

 Madame Housewife may not try this at home, but if you are so inclined, here's the how-to: About.com-Home Cooking/ How to Flambe.

After the meal was finished, the wine was poured and the posse of "chefs" sat down together to dine. Friendly chatter surrounded the table until the first bit was taken. 

Madame Housewife and the chef

It took a few minutes for everyone to recover from the culinary nirvana they had entered. There is something social about preparing a meal together and at least for a few moments this little band of cuisine minded travelers shared something nearly familial: the ecstasy of creating and enjoying scrumptiously divine dishes. 

grapefruit granita and shortbread cookies

Dessert featured a clean and light grapefruit granita with home made shortbread cookies. The perfect citrusy foil for the heavy meal. 


Traveling to Savannah and want to cook with Chef Darin? Here's the info:


The Mansion Cooking School Programs


                                                                        Bon Appetit, Y'all!

Somethin' Else!

See the fleur di lis?

When you visit a city frequently you can fall into a rut of eating at the same places. Often you want to make sure that anyone traveling with you has a great experience and as a seasoned traveler acting as a guide you want to avoid disappointing them. On Madame Owner's recent trip to New Orleans something new was discovered. MO's new son-in-law was keen to have a delicious brunch someplace in The Quarter before starting out for the drive home. It isn't hard to find a great restaurant offering up delicious fare including everything from bananas foster to eggs benedict on a lazy Sunday morning. Goldilocks would have been proud as they roamed from place to place.

"This one's TOO expensive."

"This one's TOO crowded."

Then in the shadow of the Louisiana Supreme Court they happened upon a little place with outdoor seating in the alley and an interesting menu.

"This one's JUST right."

The Somethin' Else Cafe is located at 620 Conti and the has outdoor seating in the adjacent alley. The weather was just warm enough to sit there and discuss which palm tree on the grounds of the courthouse is most iconic.  Madame had been hoping for endless mimosas as part of the brunch scenario but wasn't disappointed at all with her second choice, a bloody mary. The vegetable garnishes were arranged in a clever fleur di lis. The service was a bit slow, which isn't a big deal if you are lounging around hoping to soak up a few extra moments of Cajun ambiance before leaving town. The waitress was friendly however, and the menu was worth studying in depth. MO's daughter and her new husband ordered the Somethin' Else French Toast and MO and Mr. MO ordered the Crab Cake NOLA. This restaurant gets points for creativity and new twists on old standards.

The French toast actually tasted like a banana bread and looked like muffins. It was topped with a praline sauce, and was amazing. The "crab cakes" were scoops of lump crab meat seasoned to perfection and grilled between a biscuit, then topped with a fried egg and surrounded by a warm creamy sauce. MO ordered the egg on top of hers scrambled instead. All the food was uniquely delicious.  It's a bit pricey and they would have liked to have seen the waitress more often, but the food was worth the wait. The  consensus  was that the mary was the best one ever. Every item gets this writer's praise for original and fun presentation!


While researching this post I ran across several reviews of this restaurant and they are extreme on both ends. Lots of folks raved about it and just as many seemed to have had a really bad experience. I will admit that the food is s-l-o-w to arrive but I am easily swayed to love something that was better than I had hoped for, which it absolutely was.

Happy travels and eating, y'all!

Jackie's OH!

Last weekend Madame Owner, her husband, daughter, and new son-in-law headed to New Orleans for the wedding of a cousin. MO's family has been to NOLA a lot over the years but this was the first time they hadn't taken the train.

A highway is less interesting than a train track running through the old parts of quaint, small southern towns. It is in this case, however, quicker. On this trip time was of the essence.

Dinner at Acme Oyster House always means standing in a line out front.  Might as well take some pictures while you're there, right?

MO and her daughter ordered something called an Alligator Martini. It was awful. At least MO thought so. It was green and had a strange flavor.

MO checked the list of ingredients.

Sierra Mist.

That explains it.

"Excuse me, Ma'am, can I get some water?"

It was pretty chilly but that didn't stop mother and daughter from window shopping after dinner.

"Ooooh, look at that dress."

"What street are we on?"

"We have to come back here tomorrow.

"Think we can find it? Wait. Where are we?"

This is what the men hear, but what MO and her daughter know is that their style homing instinct will lead them right where they want to go.

They still won't know what street they are on.

Except for Jackie's

This is one store that is a MUST whenever they are in town. Jackie's on Jackson Square, located a few steps from Cafe Du Mond on St. Anne Street, it is a trendy boutique full of chic and unusual items.  Some of MO's daughter's favorite pieces of clothing EVER have come from this shop.They always have a wide assortment of new and quirky pieces of clothing and accessories. MO needed a new purse and finally settled on a brown number, with gold details. Her daughter tried on several dresses but ended up with the two that were on display in the window.

Here she is wearing one of them at the wedding they attended. The ribbon is actually one she took out of her Converse tennis shoe to make an impromptu belt.

Style not only means taste, but the ability to be creative in a pinch. The dress itself has no waistline, and has layers of pretty eyelet detail in the back. The bright tomato red is a stunner.

The Quarter is full of shops running the gamut from high end, to trendy and inexpensive. You can find something that you will bring home and actually wear, unlike the naughty t-shirt that you thought was clever after your second hurricane. Trust me. Buy yourself something nice instead. You'll be glad you did.

Coming up next week: our favorite new breakfast spot in The Quarter!

Into the Wild Blue Yonder in Pensacola

Sometimes when we are traveling a negative turns into a positive. A day at the beach ruined by rain while vacationing on the Alabama Gulf Coast led to a discovery of the National Aviation Museum by Madame M and her crew. It is an excellent museum and the aviator and history lover will enjoy it thoroughly. One of Madame's favorite parts was Home Front U.S.A. (she is such a housewife) featuring little vignettes of typical American life during WWII. If you have boys that have been restless on other museum outings, this is one you may not be able to get them out of easily. Riding with the Blue Angels through the magic of IMAX is exciting enough to impress even the surliest teenager.

Don't miss eating at the Cubi Bar Cafe! Here's the history according to the site:

"For nearly 40 years, the NAS Cubi Point Officers' Club, in the Republic of the Philippines, was a marvelous mix of American efficiency and Filipino hospitality. The club was especially famous for its Plaque Bar, where transiting squadrons retired old plaques and commissioned new ones to commemorate each WestPac tour. The tradition of placing plaques in the O' Club bar was started during the Vietnam Conflict and endured until the closing of the base in 1992.

When the original officers' club was closed in 1992, the thousands of plaques that adorned the walls of the club as tokens of thanks were packed up and sent to the Museum to be placed as they were when the Cubi Club was closed. The legacy of this Cubi Bar brings back many memories to aviators whose squadron plaques decorate the walls."

Before you head to the cafe for lunch you may want to experience the flight simulators. The museum is located aboard the Pensacola Naval Air Station and you will be required to present ID upon entrance to the base. This is also the home of the Blue Angels Flight Demonstration Squadron and from March to November you can watch them practice free of charge behind the museum. Check here for practice times: Blue Angels Practices.

Visit the official website of the Blue Angels here.

Don't miss Flight Deck, the gift shop at the museum. You know how Madame Owner loves a good gift shop.

This would be an excellent museum to visit with the kids before or after the WWII museum in New Orleans and the Smithsonians's Air and Space Museum. 

Happy travels and flying y'all!

London Calling

Since Madame Owner watched Night at the Museum a couple of months ago I've been thinking about some of the museums she's visited and many that are still on her list. The woman doesn't have a bucket list; she has a ticket one.  Museum tickets, boarding passes, railway stubs...things she always wants more of.

The list of some of her favorite museums is topped with Churchill's Cabinet War Rooms in London. While in many museums you are looking at collections if items grouped together in some generic setting, or going through someone's home, in this museum you are entering a time warp. It looks as though everyone got up the day the war ended, left, and locked the door behind them. The gritty determination of the British to survive and win hangs in the air, still.

Here's the link to the official site: Churchill's War Room

Your visit will be enhanced by reading up on your subject before you go. Here is a list of books Churchill supplied by the museum site: The Books of Sir Winston Churchill.

Madame would add a couple of additional writings to get you in the WWII London mood:

London at War and How We Lived Then.

Can't get to London? Watch a video tour of the museum here.

Madame's Map Project

Oh for the love of maps! Today I'm showing you a project Madame Owner did as a gift to her daughter and new son-in-law. I haven't been anyplace recently except to the church full of make-up, hair products, and flat irons. And Madame? Well, she has been distracted by all the wedding hoopla but will return next week to her normal gallivanting self. 

Here's the project I've stolen from Madame Owner's blog:

 The groom had been keeping the honeymoon destination a secret and decided the 1 year mark would be a good time for the big reveal.

Since The Housewife/Mother of the Bride was in on the secret I had a little project up my sleeve, thanks to Pinterest.

I found a map of the destination...

drum roll please....

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.

A romantic return to the beach where he proposed. Remember?

back of the wrapped canvas

 Well, I don't love anything if it isn't a project so I decided to make them something special to commemorate the place.

And because I love maps.







I do not love hearts, but the bride does so I put my own aversion to them aside to do this sweet project. It's really easy. here's a walk through:

To start off I purchased a map of the destination (This would also be a really cute idea for a house warming gift for someone moving to a new city.), a canvas, and some spray adhesive.

Next I sprayed the canvas with the adhesive and proceeded to wrap the canvas as I would a present, tucking corners, etc.

I cut out a template of a heart and lightly traced the outline on the map.

Using embroidery thread (in red, of course) I began to stitch an outline of the heart. 

This is the back of the canvas. 

This is the finished product. I gave it to the bride this morning.

She did a happy dance.

Nothing starts a day off like seeing your child do a happy dance.



I have a lot of wedding related projects to share with you that I've been documenting as I've done them. So post wedding, this blog will be one project after another for a while.

Bolivar, Tennessee: Plantations, Ghost Stories, and Mexican Food.

Now there are a couple of things about Madame Owner that you may need to know since we have now come to a trip involving the Civil War, or as MO's husband likes to refer to it: The War of Northern Aggression. One is that her husband (who also answers to "The General" thanks to his new son-in-law) is a Civil War re-enactor and  is an expert on the Battle of Chickamauga, which he has written a book about, called Generation of Warriors. The second is that early in their marriage MO was a much better sport about visiting every battlefield in the south and a couple in the north and is over it in the most definite way. Any map with blue and red lines and talk of charges and flanks make her eyes glaze over.

But what she does care about, always, are people's stories. Her idea of history isn't what happened to an army but what happened to the people who made up that war machine and those around them. So while reading a plaque in the middle of a field about General So and So outmaneuvering General What's His Name leaves her bored, an antebellum home and stories about the family who lived there, their losses and loves, can perk her up better than a Starbucks hazelnut latte.

The General knows this of course, and so for a recent anniversary he found a lovely bed and breakfast in rural Tennessee that he thought MO would appreciate. Magnolia Manor sits in the little town of Bolivar (most famous for being the home of the state mental health center ) and was built in 1849 by Judge Austin Miller who was a prominent lawyer and banker. The architecture is Georgian and the house is listed on the National Historic Register and has been featured in National Geographic Magazine. It has found new notoriety for being a big hit with ghost hunters, something made clear when one of the owners, Tom, greeted MO and her husband at the door with his "Got Ghosts?" hat on.

Read more about their ghost tours HERE.

After finding their room and freshening up there was wine on the back porch with Tom and his wife Elaine who purchased the house and restored it in the eighties. They love to discuss the history of the house and tell stories of their encounters and the experiences guests have had that are hard to explain. Knowing that Madame's husband is a great lover of Civil War history Tom took him to the basement to show him a medical supply kit with connections to the Ames Plantation. They descended into the basement where the temperature was an easy twenty degrees cooler. MO took some pics just because it seemed like if there was anything spooky in this house it would be down there. She could not stop thinking what a great house this would be for a Halloween party.

The house was occupied during the war (in the south when they say "the war" they mean only the 1860s one) and used as headquarters by four Union Generals: Grant, Logan, Sherman, and McPherson. At dinner one night in the dining room Sherman made the comment that in his opinion all Southern women and children should be exterminated. Mrs. Miller left the room and was found crying on the back porch,  by General Grant who was infuriated and ordered Sherman to apologize, which he did. He was so angered by having to do so that he stormed out of the room and arriving at the bottom of the staircase drew his sword and whacked the bannister. The mark is still evident today. 

The rooms in this house have been lovingly restored by Elaine who spent years on the project. She did her homework researching original paint and wallpaper and collecting period furniture which gives the home a feeling of authenticity.  In the yard is the biggest, oldest magnolia MO had ever seen (likely the oldest in the state since it is recorded as being there when construction on the house was begun in 1844). It looked to MO like something from a child's story book.

For dinner MO and The General headed to a fairly new Mexican restaurant on Hwy. 64 called Los Portales. The actual address is 1700 W. Market Street but you can see the round building from the highway. It has a fresh and clean atmosphere and a menu with the usual Mexican fare but a few surprises. The General had mango shrimp with braised broccoli and rice. MO had what she always does when the waiter comes and she isn't ready, chicken fajitas. Everything was delicious. The fajitas were some of the best she's ever had but she ate nearly all of the broccoli off The General's plate. From the bar side they could hear live music that was so good that when they finished their meal, they took their margaritas and sat another whole hour listening to the couple who were singing. So if you are in Bolivar on Saturday night there is great food and wonderful live music at Los Polartes!

Update: Since writing this post I've learned the name of the musicians performing that night. Casting Our Pearls is made up of  Jim Zeigler and Vanessa Carrasco. Here's a link to their Facebook page. Check them out!

After an uneventful night (by this I mean no paranormal activities were reported) they awoke the next day and headed downstairs for a breakfast of coffee, juice, and eggs benedict and more conversation with their charming hosts before packing up and heading home. On the way out of town MO wanted a picture of the courthouse and movie theater. She imagined the stories of this town. She thought of it making its way back from reconstruction. She thought of it sending its sons off to WWII. She imagined it decked out for the 4th of July and Christmas. She imagined mothers in pillbox hats and fathers in skinny ties walking to church on chilly Sunday mornings. She could see the adults shaking their heads at cut offs and long hair and rock music. She thought how many other charming little towns like this there are all over the country...the world. She suddenly wanted to visit them all!

Isn't that just like her?

Happy Travels, Y'all!

Click HERE for the Hardeman County Visitor's Guide.